Fitzroy Island is a continental island that was once connected to the mainland over 10,000 years ago. It is part of the coastal mountain range known as the Malbon Thompson Mountain Range, which includes notable peaks like Bellenden Ker, Mount Bartle Frere, and Walshes Pyramid. When the Ice Age ended around 8,000 years ago, rising waters from melting ice caps flooded the valley between Fitzroy and the surrounding mountains, leaving it as an isolated island. Interestingly, Fitzroy Island is essentially the summit of a submerged mountain, making your island getaway a unique experience atop a mountain.

The island's freshwater supply comes from a natural spring that originates in the Tablelands near Mareeba, surfacing in the National Park bush behind the main complex. This freshwater source is vital for both the island's ecosystem and its visitors.

Aboriginal Heritage

For thousands of years, the Gunganji people, the traditional custodians of Fitzroy Island, have gathered food and used the area for fishing and hunting. They regard the island as spiritually significant, with a legend that a person named Gulnyjarubay named the island Gabara, meaning “the fist.” This name symbolizes the submerged lower portion of the island, with only the “fist” remaining above water.

European Discovery and Early Use

In 1770, Lieutenant James Cook named the island Fitzroy, after the family name of the Duke of Grafton, who was the Prime Minister of England at the time. The point on the mainland opposite Fitzroy Island was named Cape Grafton in his honour.

From the early 1800s, Fitzroy Island saw visits from pearling and surveying vessels. By the late 1800s, a beche-de-mer (sea cucumber) industry operated from the island, supplying the Asian food market. In 1876, it became a quarantine station for Chinese workers, known as 'coolies', heading to the Palmer River Goldfields. Unfortunately, conditions were dire, leading to starvation and illness, with many workers buried on the island, though the exact locations of their graves remain unknown.

Mission Days and Agriculture

In the early 1900s, Fitzroy Island became part of the Anglican Aboriginal mission established at Yarrabah. The mission was involved in agricultural activities, growing bananas, pawpaw, potatoes, and cassava. The memories of family separations and farming the island’s gardens are preserved by the elders of Yarrabah today. The Menmuny Museum at Yarrabah showcases displays about this period in the island's history.

Maritime History

Over the years, several ships have wrecked on the reefs surrounding Fitzroy Island. In 1923, the first navigation light, a carbide gaslight, was installed on Little Fitzroy Island. A lighthouse was built on Fitzroy Island in 1943, providing essential navigational aid, especially during wartime. The remains of this lighthouse can still be seen along the Summit walking track.

The current lighthouse on Fitzroy Island was constructed in 1970, replacing an earlier radar station established in 1942. The cottages built around the same time served as homes for lighthouse keepers until the light was automated in 1991. Today, these cottages are part of the national park, while the automated lighthouse is located on Little Fitzroy Island.

Hiking Trails and Scenic Views

For those looking to enjoy the island's natural beauty, there are several hiking trails. A steep service road leads to the lighthouse, starting from the north-east end of the camping area. This lookout offers stunning views of Green Island on clear days. From the lighthouse, visitors can enjoy expansive ocean views, and during winter, there’s a chance to spot migrating humpback whales.

The Summit Track is another popular hike, climbing 600 meters through woodland to the summit. This challenging walk rewards hikers with magnificent 360-degree views over the island, surrounding reefs, and the mainland. After reaching the summit, the track descends for 1.4 km through woodland and open heathland, returning to the camping area.

Historical Significance of Walking Trails

Most of the walking trails on Fitzroy Island were established during World War II when the island was converted into a military base to protect Australia’s mainland from potential invasion. This historical context gives hikers access to some of the best vantage points in the region.

In addition to its natural beauty, Fitzroy Island has seen various developments, including a Giant Clam farm at Welcome Bay and the establishment of a tourist resort with day visitor amenities. These developments have made the island a popular destination for both locals and tourists alike.